Fly 150 change spark plug

After reading all the options, and trying myself to access the Fly 150 spark plug, I came to the conclusion that removing  all the panels, pert carrier etc was the best route to take. After a couple of hours with screwdrivers and electric drill - all was stripped down....photos to follow soon.
The Fly 150 spark plug access design is not user friendly. This applies to my 2010 model. The engineers did not do a good job of designing this model for the 'do it yourself" owners. That being said, I have the time and the tools to do all of this, so I plunged into it this summer and will be doing everything, and hopefully become somwhat of an accomplished service/repair individual and contribute to the Vespa Forum in a sensible way, unlike some on that site who can't answer a simple straighforward question.

Remove spark plug a long job but well covered in the 17 pages in the shop manual  book - to which I have to add photos and more descriptions - such as pix of rear shock and explain how to remove it because the shop manual is not user friendly.

Note:   remember spark plug is set in at an angle and you are screwing hard steel into a soft allow engine head - screw in slowly by hand at first.. if any resistance is felt, just back off and start over. Just screw it in carefully by hand and set firmly with plug socket that came with scoot tools ..photos to be added - not overtight.

Photo of useful tools to have handy (a)  small magnet on thin wire to lower into areas to pick up dropped screws, and (b) long thin claw tool to pick up same screws...these two tools will save you the time and agony of looking at a screw in an impossible area to reach with your fingers.

Here are my first photos of the rear shock which has to be removed/ raised to drop engine - that is according to the 17 page workshop manual pages I have. Single click on my pix to enlarge.

Pix #1 below is the view down into the rear of scoot showing the rusty top nut/bolt of the single rear shock.




pix # 2 below rear shock bottom should swing out towards rear when bolt/nuts are removed...or does engine just drop.

 pix #3 below just another view of rear single shock on rear left of scoot.

ok...so now i have to identify the important parts. 

in pix #2 & 3 above the outside nut on rear bushing above tran case is 1/2 inch. I have to test the inside nut which will need a long depth socket about 3/4 inch size...I think it is 17mm... or a wrench of same size to hold nut while loosening the outer nut...easily done.

and done with top nut/bolt of the shock still firmly untouched in place...but eventually make sure engine with wheel attached to engine drops slowly and carefully...who knows???

may 1st 2013 bendix/tran cover problem

spring and sun is here - so fly 150 is out in sun.
torques from list in my owners manual

drive pulley nut (front) 75+83  55-61 foot lbs average 58 lbs
driven pulley shaft nut (rear)  54+60  40-44 foot lbs average 42 lbs 
clutch unit nut on driven pulley 45+50  33-36 foot pounds  average  35lbs

first i have to remove bendix unit to clean - already have correct tools and  tran cover off - looked at scooter girl video and see that i have to remove the holding nut and then pry loose the odd shaped washer - then slide off the saucer sized plate with teeth...so begins the project...photos to follow...will have to keep this log updated for my own reference
first major thing learned, make sure thin washer which was nearest to engine goes back in correct place and does not get squashed out of shape when tightening with torque wrench - mine did and the photo below tells the story of how the metal got squashed and wedged into the nut grooves and thus prevents it coming off easily - so far have tried 2 prong puller from Ace which does not seem to do any good. Will have to take more photos when parts get here from scooterwest - and then ask jim on moderndvespa site what other advise he has to solve beginning of this problem.  no matter how careful you are - shit happens.
look at 4 o'clock area and see how washer was ground into splines.

NOTES from photos etc collected from various sources

starter relay photos from vespa forum 11/28/12
located near battery on lx150 after removing back cover five screws
you can pry it open to clean contacts
haven't found it yet on fly 150
note ; most power does not come from starter button to bendix but comes from relay which is opened by starter button

www.fly150service.blogspot.com

Above engine locations:
a. Idle screw
b. Air screw D shape inset
c. Evap hose slide on connect nipple
d. Auto choke connects here

The carb is not fixed to the engine but is held in place by the two large hoses at each end. The general idea when cleaning the carb is to loosen the clamps holding the two hoses and pry off the carb from the hoses, remove a couple of the other obstructions, and then turn it over...slowly... away from you....Then remove the bottom of the carb and thus expose the idle and other jets plus floats. Place a towel next to carb to catch the fuel that comes out.
Below are the clean carb photos technique from a great site on vespa forum. I have to put these in correct place and sequence with some explanation of procedure.
It sure makes the job easier with these photos and explanation.

at last - photo top view of fly 150 engine

Above:  The white object is the automatic choke revealed when black cover is removed. This white object is removed-unscrewed for cleaning carb -as shown in another photo below.

Above:  These are the carb jets. The idle jet is in the center and can be carefully unscrewed to remove and clean or replace.....as can the other jets. The idle jet can be replaced with a larger jet you can buy from scooterwest. Be careful not to displace or damage the floats which are the black rounded objects on either side of jets.

This shows the location where the automatic choke was affixed.

There are four screws at the bottom of carb which have to be removed to remove the bottom carb cover and thus expose the chamber, jets and floats. I have to identify these screws which can be seen in the photo.

Above:  This is a good photo to identify all the items such as idle screw, air mixture screw, automatic choke screws removed, evap hose input connection nipple, carb holding tube, etc which I will identify later.

Above:  remove-unscew holding bolts-white automatic choke object after removing its black cover - set aside before removing carb.


above: cleaning carb photos from vespa forum






Last update 1/15/2012.
I put this together to keep track of things I find and to help myself and others quickly find answers
Below are the photos of those pesky screws.
The D shape one is the air mixture screw (needs a special little tool from scooterwest) and the other with top view is the idle screw. These are located on the left side (front) looking down from the left of the scooter. The idle screw is easy to see at the top of the carb. The air mixture screw needs a small mirror to locate and can be found on the left front of the carb - about in line with your left knee and below where the evap hose enters. It is recessed into the small metal tube that feeds into the carb intake and it is set at the factory. It has little effect on the air intake and at the most should be turned no more than half turn in either direction - my understanding is that it has very little effect on the carb function - the actual mixture is controlled inside the carb itself by the idle jet and slide sleeves which are all cleaned and lubricated by the fuel and additives. Only way other way to clean these is to remove the carb and replace idle jet and clean with forced air etc. Taking the carb off is a labor intensive job and not suggested unless you really have major carb problem...and all the right tools. There is a complete description of this work on the vespa forum site - which I will add later. date now 1/15/2021.
More later on these.

Note the blue home-made evap hose filter in the next photo

The following two photos show (1) the evap hose fitting with hose removed and home made blue filter attached to small portion of the hose(2) the evap hose on the fitting

THE D SHAPE "AIR" MIXTURE SCREW

Just started to change idle jet and adjust air screw mixture. Bought the special tool and jet from Scooterwest. The Fly 150 has a small work space for the carb because unlike the LX 150 you cannot remove the pet carrier. Good photos etc on modernvespa forum - well worth reading all of them before beginning this project...will need time and patience and right tools. Oct 30, 2011.

regane gumout gets good reviews - use 2 ounces with fill up - every 400-500 miles unless urgently need to clean out old gas oil etc....really worked for me...now i use sparingly one ounce every 200-300 miles....fly 150 just zips along.
new notes; turn air mixture screw out anti-clockwise 1/4 turn for richer faster mixture - rarely have to do this - makes little difference anyway and preset by factory.
the air mixture screw is under the slot piece that the hose for the evap system went into the carb - and as such is almost impossible to reach with the adjustment tool which is a small brass 1/4 moon shaped inset wrench inside a small piece of plastic tubing - see photo on scooterwest site - you have to look in a mirror to line up the shape and then have an allen key with the right angle end inserted into the tool (with a white line painted on and showing where the 1/4 moon slot is located in the tool) that allows you to fiddle around to get the tool to fit onto the mixture screw and then to the 1/4 turn adjustment anti-clockwise to make the richer mixture....lot of time,patience and luck to get the simple job to work. turning the carb over to replace the idle jet is a long long project - there is very little work space in the fly 150 carb area.
complicated yes - but can be done...photos for this job will post later.

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overheating/air flow thoughts
the fly 150 has limited air flow - you could remove the small engine cover that is behind your heels when sitting on scoot - also remove bowl shape carb/engine cover in pet carrier - this will give lot more airflow over engine - try it for a 30-40 mile ride - if it works then just cut out larges holes in covers and insert some wide mesh foam air filter material




check following items
buy shell rotell t6 5-40 oil from walmart - very cheap by comp
hiflo hf183 filters at amazon or ebay a great buy


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These photos show how to unlock the seat when keys are lost or left in the seat locked. Taken from Modernd Vespa forum.
Also, SCOOTERS ORIGINALI in Orange New Jersey may be best service center in NJ NY area.
The first photo is of thin piece of plastic cut to shape and then slid under the rear of the seat and inserted until it stops. Then pull back on the plastic piece, and it will engage the latch and release.
The second and third photos involve the use of a 1/8' piece of metal rod with a two inch bend at one end. Insert into rear of seat at rear right side and move over to center, then push sideways to allow rod to be at right angles, then twist rod so that the bent part moves upward and strikes the release bar.
These methods work and were taken from ModernVespa Forum.







try conti navigator tires to replace savas

helmetsrus.com for good prices on visors etc

above: the key under the seat solution photos from modern vespa site

oil change 600 miles & other notes

Oil change & maintenance check at 600 miles.

Sunday October 9th, 2010.

NOTE: YOU DO NOT NOT HAVE TO REMOVE REAR WHEEL OR EXHAUST TO CHANGE OILS ON FLY 150 - SCOOTER GIRL AGREES AND IS MAKING NEW VIDEO WITHOUT REMOVING WHEEL OR EXHAUST
I just completed my hub and engine oil change at 600 miles.
The one thing that made it easy was having all the correct tools and parts. Also, reading the ModernVespa web site for the past few months and watching the scootergirl videos gave me a good insight into what I had to do. It all came together today in two relaxed hours of work in the sunshine.
I put the scooter up on its center stand, and spread out a cushioned mattress on the right hand side of the scooter next to the exhaust. There is no need to take off the exhaust to change the oils. It can all be done with ease and comfort laying down and sitting on the mattress using the correct tools, and having all the parts next to you on a white towel. NB: You need lots of clean rags to wipe up oily parts, spills, and a little gasoline to clean your hands..also good time to fill up gas tank.

1. Drive the scooter for about ten minutes to heat up the oil and the drain plugs - makes it easier to unsrew plugs and remove warm oil.

2. Bend and mold a tin foil baking dish under the engine to catch oil as it pours from filter hole and the brass screw drain plug. (I also made a chute like a swimming pool slide out of heavy duty tin foil to catch oil as it comes out and direct it into the tin foil dish) It will have to hold at least one quart of oil. Then pour out the old oil into a container and mark the level it reaches. This way you can clean out the container and add the same amount of new oil into the engine that came out. It is a quart.
Remove the plastic oil screen from the drain hole.

The correct tools make this easy.

(a) The special socket for the slotted end of the oil filter along with an after-market filter which comes with o ring gasket, I ordered from scooterwest.com
(b) The 24mm socket to remove the brass colored nut to drain the oil. This requires some effort to remove and it helps to have a long handle on the socket - and a breaker extension. A couple of sharp taps on the nut will help break the tension contact. Make sure the socket is well connected to the nut - do not strip the nut. I purchased 24mm socket from my local Ace Hardware, and I ordered an extra 24mm brass nut with 0 ring from scooterwest - just in case of problems.
(c) Remove the oil screen from the oil drain hole. I ordered a new oil screen from scooterwest.
The oil screen sits just inside the oil drain hole and usually comes out with the oil or just use your little finger to ease it out.
Don't forget to order a new crush washer for the hub oil nut - get this as with most things from ScooterWest....and smear a little oil on the oil filter O ring washer.
Other Notes.

These are some notes I picked up from daily reading of the Vespa Forum and/or I experienced on my own Fly150.

1. Odd thing with battery.
If engine does not start and it sounds like a flat battery - just whirring noise or a clunk no turning over of motor. Usually during cold periods.
Sometimes the battery terminals build up a surface resistance and will not produce power to start. The solution is strange but true - it happened to me once on my car one winter.
Turn on the ignition and lights - wait for 30 seconds - then try starting. Turning on the lights will confirm you have some power - it will also clear the surface resistance build up.
Then you need to disconnect the battery and clean the terminals with emery paper.

2. Roller specs
The rollers are the same as the LX150:
19mm - dia.
17mm - width
10 gram - weight

Piaggio FLY 150 Service

I am just cleaning out the flood mess from hurricane here in Brigantine, NJ.

would not start - flood water went up about four inches and got into exhaust/muffler and spat it out when i turned it over.
Battery is new and fully charged but now just whirring sound bendix needs fixing - - it did run for few seconds using quick start can direct into carb with air filter off. that got rid of all water in exhaust muffler. Now have to remove variator/clutch cover etc...looked at scooter girl video couple of times. she makes it look easy because she has already removed the panels...but is the best help around - and that is a problem with screws stripping on fly 150. I have made a list of all tools required and have just orded them from scooter west and amazon. The tools list is probably the most important to start and fill..will go from there in a week or so when all arrives. lots of good help on vespa forum...esp her video....and all winter to do it right.
here is my list of tools etc for removing variator cover etc and getting to bendix and rollers belt etc.
the correct tools are a must to get beforehand.
1.  torque wrench  20-100 ft lbs  3/8ths the torque on vario nut is 75-83nm = 56-62t lbs
     torque on clutch = 46nm  =  40-42ft lbs   nm means newton metres.
     75nm = 55 ft lbs   83nm = 61 ft lbs
2.   19mm socket  /  18mm socket   /  8mm socket
3.   6 inch wrench socket extension 3/8ths
4.   clutch holder tool from scooter west
5.   variator holder tool from scooter west
6.   diagonal cutting pliers
7.   6 inch philips screwdriver - high quality check fit - don't strip screws holding panels etc.
8. lithium grease
9. loctite medium
10.   2inch needle nose pliers
11.   4inch needle nose pliers
12.   4 inch flat head thin screwdriver

now what to do with those tools.
scooter girl video makes it look easy because she has already removed the panels. so that's your first job - remove panels to gain access to air filter and ease of removing variator cover bolts etc.

I created this blog to seperate my riding experience blog
http://www.fly150.blogspot.com/

From these boring service notes, I will add photos and other info as I find it or experience and find a solution to any problem.

1. Never fill gas tank more than 3/4 - it will cause vapor lock or overflow into carb. Solve this problem by disconnecting the evap hose as explained in link below...and replace with small hose and self-made filter as shown. Buy a 2 gallon gas can and fill it yourself - saves all worries...but don't trust the fuel gauge to reset correctly everytime...always double check with a small 6 inch dipstick into filler hole...avoiding an overfill is a must. Always park on a flat surface; a tip-over is a disaster you can easily avoid - unless drunk.

After reading all the posts by Vespa owners during the past 6 months on the subject of the EVAP HOSE; I have come to the conclusion that there is no need to do anything more than just pull off the evap hose from the carb and let it hang down the outside of the scooter. It is OK to put a smalll filter on the carb to prevent any foreign material from entering...BUT it should be noted that Piaggio uses that same carb on all their LX150 scooters worldwide - and they ship them with that hole open with no evap hose or any kind of filter. It is only the USA that gets the EVAP system because of California emmision laws. So, just pull of the hose - and don't worry about the whole mess. For more info click below:

Click here: http://www.modernvespa.com/forum/topic65874

This link has complete explanation of evap system solutions along with photos.

Also look at photo below. The simple uncomplicated method: I just cut off evap hose about 4 inches from carb and then used a wire twist to hold a piece of filter material on the hose. The rest of the evap hose from gas tank just slides down and hangs taped to left lower side of scooter.

This shows top view of carb and carb fittings under pet seat cover . "pet seat" storage is so called because there is a factory sticker in the storage compartment under the seat that says "NO PETS" :-)

Note the blue home-made evap hose filter in the next photo

The following two photos show (1) the evap hose fitting with hose removed and home made blue filter attached to small portion of the hose(2) the evap hose on the fitting

AIR FILTER

Checking the air filter takes two hours patient time until you become

experienced. Make sure you have medium head good long Philips screwdriver, needlenose pliers, and magnet to pull out screws - magnetized screwdriver helps. After removing a couple of small panels and removing screws - the air filter casing slips out downward with a little wiggling and pulling. Replacing takes sliding in and out several times...just takes time but works.

Engine system cleaner. Most people suggest SeaFoam - I am trying GUMOUT-REGANE because my local ACE store does not carry SeaFoam. One ounce per one gallon of gas every 200 miles...most reviews give GUMOUT REGANE good results...don't overuse.

Check oil levels each week - engine, hub, brake.

Check tire pressure every week - 25lbs front - 29lbs rear - makes steering easier.

Click below to get videos from "scootergirl" showing service etc on LX150 which has same engine as Fly150 or go to youtube and search for scootergirl Vespa videos.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yNSEX7Mx9zg

notes; removing front tire - keep wheel on ground to loosen nuts - prop up front - scooter front is really light - put scooter on center stand - lift up on handlebar - kick prop up bucket under.